When it comes to Halloween and costumes, I love to go all out! Now that doesn’t mean you have to spend a lot of money, just think outside the box. This is when I get creative and rummage through what we already have and make multiple trips to my local Hobby Lobby. Creating your kiddos costume also does not mean you need to have a sewing machine.
Here are a few of my kids past costumes I created with very little money spent and just a little time, effort and creativity (mostly while they were sleeping). The boys pick who they want to be an I figure out how to make it happen.
This was a fun one to figure out and create. I used cardboard, foam, foam sheets, a lot of duct tape, black spray paint and a little hot glue. He does have lego hands but appears to be hiding them in every picture.
BAD MICHAEL JACKSON:
For this costume, I did buy the wig and jacket because some things just need to be bought. I spray painted plastic buckles with chrome spray paint for the buckles and attached them to the gloves with hot glue. I fabric glued some red felt to some black skinny jeans and cut small slits to weave the black straps to attach the plastic buckles. Top it all off with a little a few of my belts, black eyeliner and BAM, Bad Michael Jackson! This boy loves dance!
I purchased a skin colored muscle top and hand sewn pieces of foam that I cut to make the chest piece. For the bottom, I purchased some brown fur that I fabric glued and hand sewn to a pair of boys boxer briefs.
For all of the boots I covered the boys rain boots with felt and attached it with clear packing tape. For the Lego batman boots, I first added pieces of cardboard to give them the block shape and added fur accents to the He-man boots and buckles for the Michael Jackson boots. Afterwards the boots are not damaged and the felt comes right off.
This is what Halloween is all about! Get out there with your kiddos, dress up and have some fun! This is what they will remember and will be happy they had fun parents. I am already planning our next Halloween costumes, how about you?
I have this beautiful large frame that was generously given to me by my MIL. It previously had a mirror in it that had cracked and had been removed and had a few cracks in the frame here and there. As soon as I saw it I had a plan of turning it into a headboard. This was a very quick, easy and inexpensive project. I paid a total of around 15$ for the entire project. The only thing I purchased was the fabric and crib size batting from Hobby Lobby.
Since the frame is in rough shape I decided to give it a distressed look and white washed, then dry brushed paint on it. I First added paint to all the edges and crevices and then wiped away the excess so that all cracks would fill in with white.
Some of the corners were slightly split and cracked from the outside corner to the inside corners so I decided to patch them and create the same look in each corner to add to the distressed look. Then I dry brushed over the entire frame. Dry brushing is really simple after dipping the brush in paint you brush/ dab off all the excess paint so you are left with very little on the brush. This helps to create the light brush strokes, leaving the frame color visible while adding a textured look.
After the patin was dry, I took out the backing to use as backing for the inside padded area I wanted to create. For the padding I tore apart an old crib mattress that was lying around in my basement (this was not easy but it did the trick). I pretty much ended up having to tear it apart with my hands because the mattress as is would be way too thick as is. I laid out the crib size batting, laid down my mattress stuffing and the backing on top if it and started stapling. I used the batting to keep the stuffing stiff and in place. This way I was able to keep the shape before adding the fabric.
Before stapling down the fabric, I ironed out all the lines and creases then repeated the same process with the fabric. I folded the edges of the fabric over before stapling so the back would be a little neater (not that anyone will see it). Now I have the raised padded area that will fit back into the frame with little effort.
I pushed the padded area into the frame, secured the backing back to the frame and done. Now to hang it on the wall. Luckily this frame had all the hardware needed to hang a large heavy piece on the back. I love how this project tuned out and only took a couple of hours out of my weekend to complete. It also will be a great focal point for the guest room that I am slowly working on fixing up. Anything to get my parents in town more often. Now to add some new paint and work on the idea of adding a basement bathroom.
I cant believe this part has taken so long to post even though it has been done for quite some time. After redoing the bathroom floor, my sink and counter were next on the list. let the demolition begin! I think I can safely say that no one likes the look of these shell sinks, especially when painted over like mine was. Yuck right!?
We decided to try and keep the upper cabinets if possible and did our best not to destroy them while taking the sink out. I also worked on painting the cabinets inside and out during the whole process.
We first had to build a top with a layer of plywood and a layer of cement board which let me tell you was a paint to get in. The trim for our closet door is so close to the counter that we had to cut the boards in half in order to get them in. I decided to use a piece of trim for the counter edge that I would paint to match the cabinets. Before laying the tile we first place the sink and faucet and mark the holes that we will drill out of the counter top. Then I laid down my tile and cut each piece to fit.
A little mortar, tile, let dry and then grout.
Now that the tile has been grouted, its finally time to install this beautiful sink that we have pretty much had since we moved into this house 5 years ago. I love, love, love this sink!!!
My bathroom is finally complete! New flooring, counter, sink, lighting and paint. I now love my master bath!
Finally, my last bathroom is getting an update! Time to rip out the carpet and the awful, cracked white tile flooring. Like most of my projects, one day I get an urge to redo and start the process. The first step in my process is convincing my husband that now is the perfect time to start the project then demolition begins. After getting up the carpet and tile there is still so much prep work to do. Craig busted out all the floor tile and mortar underneath while I ripped out the carpet, floor tacks and pulled up any staples that were sticking out. This has to be the worst part of the process. Keep in mind that before ripping out your flooring you will need to turn off your water, remove the toilet and make sure that the valves are closed before turning your water back on and getting started. The sub floor was in great shape and we are tiling a small area so now we will start laying the tile.
Before laying the tile you want to make sure you start with a clean surface and then plan out your tile pattern. Tiling a floor may sound intimidating but is not that bad once you get into it. I wish I could say it gets easier with every project but if you are anything like me, you change something up to challenge yourself a little more each time. I learned from a previous bathroom floor that I will never lay slate tile again. Each piece is not created equal. Some may be thicker and even slightly a different size which creates a headache when you are searching for perfection. Another difficulty with slate is that when you apply the grout, it gets stuck in all the crevices and uneven surfaces of the tile which is a little grueling to get off. So bottom line is to research what tile you are laying before you buy it.
I chose to use a 4X12 porcelain tile that I will layout in a herringbone pattern (this is where the project takes a more difficult turn). Any time you run tile at different angles like in this pattern you will end up with more difficult cuts on the edges since the tile is not running straight across.
When laying tile, its best to start from the center of the space and work your way out. I started by laying out my pattern in the center to make sure the angles were straight and correct and ran it through towards the enclosed area of my bathroom where the shower and toilet are. Once my mortar was mixed and ready to go, I spread some mortar evenly on the floor with the metal trowel then used the tooth like side of the trowel and dragged it across the mortar to create lines. You will then do the same to the back of each tile before laying it on the mortar that was just spread on the floor. Having the mortared texture on both the floor and the back of the tile allows them to bond together tighter. Try pulling up a tile right after laying it down, it immediately grabs to each other. Continue this process until you have to make cuts. I laid down as many full tiles as I could in one area and then started to measure and mark any edge pieces.
What was so helpful in this process was having Craig help me along the way. While Craig was cutting a group of tiles for me I would work on making the cut marks on the next group and would lay each group as he brought them to me. This smaller enclosed are of my bathroom was the most grueling. Cutting the correct angles all around the edges and the toilet area definitely made my head hurt. I knew that once I got past this part the rest would go by much faster. For the most part of one day I laid all the tile in the shower/toilet area and all of the full center pieces for the rest of the bathroom. The next morning I attacked the rest of the edge pieces that needed to be measured and cut. Whew, that was rough. Note to self: These long tiling projects make your whole body ache!
Once the tile had set as instructed on the mortar bag, It was time to grout. Grouting goes by much faster but can be pretty messy. Mix the grout as stated in the instructions (consistency is key). You dont want it to be too thick to spread but you also don’t want it to be so runny that you can’t pick it up with your float. Spread the grout across the tile and be sure that you don’t leave any holes between the tiles. Its okay to have a little more because you will wipe away the excess. After your entire area is grouted you will have to start the process of wiping the floor with a large sponge to remove all the excess grout (follow the grouting instructions on the grout packaging). You will have to wait until the grout no longer comes off on your fingers when touching to start this process. After wiping it downy the first time you will want to wait another 30 minutes or so before wiping down the tile again. Once done I let mine sit overnight and do a final cleaning to remove any haziness and then the floor is ready to be sealed. Check out that lovely yellow shell sink and countertop (they are next to go).
We then installed our new toilet which I believe has been in a box in our basement for a couple years now.Our last step was to tack down metal carpet strips where the tile and carpet meet. Seeing this new beautiful tile on my floor makes me feel so happy inside! Not too bad for a mom of three. Now to start Part 2, the ugly yellow painted sea shell counter top. I’m so in love with these floors!
I recently saw a shirt online that said gangster wrapper and I knew I had to have it for this Christmas. After searching I couldn’t find one I liked and decided I would make one. It was so simple but took a little time. You can really make anything you can imagine.
All you will need:
Iron, freezer paper, sharpie, exact knife or scissors, fabric paint or fabric glitter and glue.
Once you have the design you want printed, simply trace your design on the freezer paper with a sharpie. You want the shiny side of the paper down since that is the side that will adhere to the fabric. I made my design on my computer and then printed it out but you can use any clip art online that you may find or even trace things out of a book.
Now that your design is on the freezer paper, you will need to cut around it to make the stencil. For more detailed designs you will want to use an exacto knife. For simpler designs you can get by with scissors. After your design is cut out place your stencil on your fabric (shiny side down). To adhere the stencil to your fabric, iron over the stencil for 5 to 10 seconds. Once it cools down you get to do the fun part. Add the glitter!!
Before you start painting or adding glitter you will want to be sure you have a piece of cardboard or something under the area you are covering so that it doesn’t bleed through to the back side of the shirt. I wanted my letters to be all glitter so I first painted on my glitter glue for fabric, then sprinkled my glitter over the top. You can use fabric paint if you don’t want glitter. I did this same thing on onesies for my friends baby shower and it was a big hit to have everyone create super cute baby clothes.
Once dry simply pull off the the stencil and your shirt is ready to wear! If you used glitter you will want to shake off the excess. You should do this in an area that will not drive your husband in to a glitter rage! 🙂 I touched up a few areas that didn’t fill in but I would say it turned out pretty good.
What the hell is hair plopping and does it work? Im sure many of you have seen this around recently and were curious just as I was. I decided to waste my time so you wouldn’t have to. It is fairly simple and takes very little time. The outcome is supposed to be an easy way to get nice frizz free curly hair. Now my hair is not necessarily curly but has a natural wave to it.
Basically, after you get out of the shower and towel dry your hair you wrap it in a tshirt. Before wrapping my hair up I put in some hair products that I would use if I decided to go curly for the day. lay an old tshirt out flat on your bed with the sleeves closet to you. Then you bend over forward and pop your hair in the center of the shirt. With the sleeves now near your face, you put the bottom end of the shirt around the back of your neck. Then tie the sleeves in a knot on the back of your neck (like you might wear a bandana). Then wear it to bed and take off the next morning.
My hair takes forever to dry, so I am very skeptical and am expecting for my hair to be a big wet mess. I took a shower around 8:00, watched a little tv and then went to bed with this shirt around my head. My boys were looking at me like I was a crazy person.
When I woke up and removed the shirt this is what my hair looked like. It is by no means amazing as is but its not the huge wet mess I was expecting. My hair is still wet but as much as I expected with it being wrapped up all night.
I then put some texturizing sea salt spray in my hair that I bought at Target (sorry mom) and used my diffuser on low.
To my surprise, it actually worked pretty well and took much less time than if I were to try and achieve this look straight out of the shower. This is one of those test that I never expected to work and I was wrong. Not too bad for ver little effort! I will definitely be doing this again!
After painting my kitchen island the rest of my kitchen needs a little more color added. one night it hit me that I have some old metal decorative signs that I could paint like my island and hang in the kitchen, so I did. I generally keep any and all decor that I buy because at seem point it can be repainted and or repurposed. Here are the metal sign before I got a hold of them.
I then painted the teal color and each and then wiped off any excess for it to have a little more depth. If you were going for more of a rustic country look, white paint would look great on something like this.
After the paint was dry I painted on the black gel stain and then wiped away the excess once again. Make as many layers as you want. You may need to repeat the process a couple times to get what you want. This was super easy and quick and it saved me some money.
I let mine dry overnight and hung them the next day.